Where's the shields?
Moderator: Chris Chaput
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Where's the shields?
Look at this pic (from ABEC11's site):
I've got 4 or 5 different sets of Biltins, some were "plain wrap", some actually had "retail" labeling on the tube. Some are ABEC5, some are 7 (and I do not begin to think that I could actually tell the difference if there was one, cuz I'm not that consistent.)
Anyhow, look closely at that pic, and there's shields on BOTH sides of the bearing, all of mine are only shielded on the outside.
What's your experience? Anyone have any with both shields?
Q
I've got 4 or 5 different sets of Biltins, some were "plain wrap", some actually had "retail" labeling on the tube. Some are ABEC5, some are 7 (and I do not begin to think that I could actually tell the difference if there was one, cuz I'm not that consistent.)
Anyhow, look closely at that pic, and there's shields on BOTH sides of the bearing, all of mine are only shielded on the outside.
What's your experience? Anyone have any with both shields?
Q
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- Airflow-Skateboards
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specially lubricated receptacle end
About a month ago I asked Chris & Brent about the missing shield. Their answer was that a shield isn't needed on the inside of the bearing, where it is protected inside the wheel. Unlike a normal bearing, a Biltin always has the same side in and thus needs no shield there.
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Biltin shields
Yeah whats up with no iner shields??
Vlad said----After the shields are damaged/gone nothing else fits. It takes one damaged shield to loose 2 bearings. A seal version would be nice.
Is it possible to buy extra shields???
Vlad said----After the shields are damaged/gone nothing else fits. It takes one damaged shield to loose 2 bearings. A seal version would be nice.
Is it possible to buy extra shields???
Thanks,
Barry
Barry
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Shields
Ok, no Shields are better to clean, thats correct.
But it isnt the only reason men build Bearings without Shields.
No Shields = More Speed
Reason is, that without Bearings, there is less friction.
And there is another reason: The air circulation In the bearing can get out.
Best would be Bearings with NO Shields, the Problem then is, that Dirt gets in the bearing very quick and will destroy the Bearing.
Most of the highspeed bearings are one side shielded.
The other Shield is normally removeable.
Most good bearings have removeable shields (also full shielded bearings),
That you can wash them out.
PS: To make your Bearings faster, DON'T USE GREACE, Take some Teflon Oil. Consistenz of Oil is thinner = Faster.
Hope i could help you.
If anyone of you Tested the V-Shockers or Super 6 Trucks please reply on Topic in "Trucks".
Greetz
Simon
But it isnt the only reason men build Bearings without Shields.
No Shields = More Speed
Reason is, that without Bearings, there is less friction.
And there is another reason: The air circulation In the bearing can get out.
Best would be Bearings with NO Shields, the Problem then is, that Dirt gets in the bearing very quick and will destroy the Bearing.
Most of the highspeed bearings are one side shielded.
The other Shield is normally removeable.
Most good bearings have removeable shields (also full shielded bearings),
That you can wash them out.
PS: To make your Bearings faster, DON'T USE GREACE, Take some Teflon Oil. Consistenz of Oil is thinner = Faster.
Hope i could help you.
If anyone of you Tested the V-Shockers or Super 6 Trucks please reply on Topic in "Trucks".
Greetz
Simon
The best to know...
Fibretec......Switzerland
Designing the CROCO
Fibretec......Switzerland
Designing the CROCO
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- Moscow-Washington
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Re: Shields
that's cool!Simon [last name] wrote:Reason is, that without Bearings, there is less friction.Simon
Let's use wheels without bearings!
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Several of us have been building our own hybrid ceramic Biltins, using ceramic balls out of the cheapest bearing sets we can score on eBay or balls out of the expensive "Rockin Ron's" ceramic bearings. They seem to work great, giving the high speed performance of a bearing that only needs the lightest of oils to the stability of the inner race/spacer interface feel of the bearings.
It's a great project if you've got an hour and the inclination. Check it out.
It's a great project if you've got an hour and the inclination. Check it out.
I ride fast boards, slowly.
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Thanks, Justin!
Jack, in response to your one query, I actually know:
--Ron has made rumblings on Concrete Disciples that he's looking into the Biltins idea.
--Chris has repo'd a set of the ceramic Biltins I made, using what I call "KMart Ceramic" balls. He has reserved comment until he rides them more.
Mile High Mark, of the eponymous online skate shop, is one that took the time and investment to use the Rockin' Ron bearings as donors to a set of Biltins. He sold them to a dude that posts on Silverfish and Ncdsa and who reports they're working great in a pumping board he's built up. Those had to go for $100, just had to.
My method is much cheaper than Mark's, and I got the idea from Hugh Regalado. I took Biltin 3's apart, and also took apart a set of hybrid ceramics I got off eBay for $10 (marketed as "Warp" ceramics in some shops) to get the ball bearings. The total cost on my set is less than $30, plus the time. In terms of time, for the first set I did it took about 45 minutes for the first 7 bearings, and about 45 minutes for the 8th bearing-- I must have been running low on caffeine or something but just kept dropping balls all over the place. Work over a cloth towel, trust me!
Jack, in response to your one query, I actually know:
--Ron has made rumblings on Concrete Disciples that he's looking into the Biltins idea.
--Chris has repo'd a set of the ceramic Biltins I made, using what I call "KMart Ceramic" balls. He has reserved comment until he rides them more.
Mile High Mark, of the eponymous online skate shop, is one that took the time and investment to use the Rockin' Ron bearings as donors to a set of Biltins. He sold them to a dude that posts on Silverfish and Ncdsa and who reports they're working great in a pumping board he's built up. Those had to go for $100, just had to.
My method is much cheaper than Mark's, and I got the idea from Hugh Regalado. I took Biltin 3's apart, and also took apart a set of hybrid ceramics I got off eBay for $10 (marketed as "Warp" ceramics in some shops) to get the ball bearings. The total cost on my set is less than $30, plus the time. In terms of time, for the first set I did it took about 45 minutes for the first 7 bearings, and about 45 minutes for the 8th bearing-- I must have been running low on caffeine or something but just kept dropping balls all over the place. Work over a cloth towel, trust me!
I ride fast boards, slowly.
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Again, now even more interesting...
I saw Ron post on Skull & Bones at least a year ago about possibly making either a DH or Slalom specific bearing (a la Biltin), but I'm guessing he's either too busy, or not that interested. I also read about some tests where Biltins were below the ABEC spec stamped on the shields. (I cannot confirm the validity of these tests.)
I use both Ron's (rocket steel) and Biltins. I love the simplicity and sturdiness of the Biltin, and Ron really seems to know his bearings, and has all the bowlriders using his stuff. I think that a fusion of the two would be bearing bliss for me.
Q
I saw Ron post on Skull & Bones at least a year ago about possibly making either a DH or Slalom specific bearing (a la Biltin), but I'm guessing he's either too busy, or not that interested. I also read about some tests where Biltins were below the ABEC spec stamped on the shields. (I cannot confirm the validity of these tests.)
I use both Ron's (rocket steel) and Biltins. I love the simplicity and sturdiness of the Biltin, and Ron really seems to know his bearings, and has all the bowlriders using his stuff. I think that a fusion of the two would be bearing bliss for me.
Q
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9 ball Revolver bearings
Hey have a look at Revolver bearings out of Canada. Jack Smith is selling them out of the states.
They have a 9 ball bearing set-up that is similar to Builtins.
They have a 9 ball bearing set-up that is similar to Builtins.
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- Justin Thyme
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Hmmm, i think its time for a little experiment.My method is much cheaper than Mark's, and I got the idea from Hugh Regalado. I took Biltin 3's apart, and also took apart a set of hybrid ceramics I got off eBay for $10 (marketed as "Warp" ceramics in some shops) to get the ball bearings. The total cost on my set is less than $30, plus the time. In terms of time, for the first set I did it took about 45 minutes for the first 7 bearings, and about 45 minutes for the 8th bearing-- I must have been running low on caffeine or something but just kept dropping balls all over the place. Work over a cloth towel, trust me!
"I like symmetry and geometric shapes"
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"I wanted my head to appear small, and the easiest way to do that was to make my body bigger."
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Vlad's bearings
Vlad, I didn't quite follow the thread. What bearings are you referring to in your note above? What do you clean them with?Vlad Popov wrote:I've been using nothing but two pairs of these bearings for over a year now. They fit many different shields and seals from other brands and are extremely easy to clean. Long-term test results are stunning; the bearings run like new.
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Ceramic biltins.
I also built up a set of ceramic Biltins. I ripped the balls out of a bearing that I didn't like the seal on, and stuffed them into an abec 5 biltin. They have stood up to everything I've thrown at them.
"Are you going to eat that?"
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Lube job!
I accidentially hit new post instead of reply! Sorry about that!
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