Lathing Wheels
Moderator: Eric Wallgren
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- Phoenix, AZ, USA
- Posts: 795
- Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 2:00 am
Hey Eric, thanks for accepting the job, it's not too troublesome and I think your investment in time will no doubt forward the sport.
I have some Avilla's that I need to have milled down a few millimeters on the outside lip. Although I enjoy those people who have sharp words, I don't like wheels with sharp lips.
Can you provide wheel lathing service?
I have some Avilla's that I need to have milled down a few millimeters on the outside lip. Although I enjoy those people who have sharp words, I don't like wheels with sharp lips.
Can you provide wheel lathing service?
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- SSS - Pocket Pistol Skates
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- Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2002 2:00 am
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Chicken,
Very cool of you to post this trimming technique.
The grinding disc on that handheld is one used for metal. You could also, with the wheel mounted on a hanger, put the edge of the wheel up to the "side" of a metal grinding-wheel of a stationary bench grinder.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Glenn on 2003-05-12 22:03 ]</font>
Very cool of you to post this trimming technique.
The grinding disc on that handheld is one used for metal. You could also, with the wheel mounted on a hanger, put the edge of the wheel up to the "side" of a metal grinding-wheel of a stationary bench grinder.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Glenn on 2003-05-12 22:03 ]</font>
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- Geezer-X
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- Moscow-Washington
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- Geezer-X
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Yes Vlad, a 6" disc sander in a 110v ac drill will work ok, albeit a bit slowly. Use 60 grit abrasive, and finish up with 120.
A belt sander also will work well. Experiment with the angle with which you present it to the edge of the wheel. The Idea is for the sander to spin the wheel, but with slip angle so there's some grinding going on. Less angle equals better control/less aggressive cutting.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Eric Wallgren on 2003-05-13 17:50 ]</font>
A belt sander also will work well. Experiment with the angle with which you present it to the edge of the wheel. The Idea is for the sander to spin the wheel, but with slip angle so there's some grinding going on. Less angle equals better control/less aggressive cutting.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Eric Wallgren on 2003-05-13 17:50 ]</font>
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- Moscow-Washington
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- Radikal Trucks
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- Location: okeechobee, fla.
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I lathe all me wheels at the machine shop where the trucks are made. We made a tool that cuts them on a tathe. At first I used water, thinking it made a smoother cut, but now I just cut them dry.
I know not everyone has a CNC lathe. But it is the best way to get that sharp edge.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Mark McCree on 2003-05-15 23:32 ]</font>
I know not everyone has a CNC lathe. But it is the best way to get that sharp edge.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Mark McCree on 2003-05-15 23:32 ]</font>
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- Geezer-X
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Yeah, I use an arbor I made and chuck them in the lathe and cut them. I didn't mention it since I hate to foster lathe-envy, but since you brought it up, it is the best way, Mr. MCREE, sir. I use the finest feed and a thin finishing cut, dry, with a round nose carbide bit with almost no rake. And I have 'em going as fast as my weedy little 60 year old lathe will go. A machine shop I deal with has a dedicated machine for doing cast urethane rollers with metal cores, which is essentially a toolpost grinder on a simple lathe. So I'm looking for a small, cheap used toolpost grinder, or I'll make one.
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- Claude Regnier
- Posts: 1189
- Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2002 2:00 am
- Location: Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
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I use a belt sander and a workmate. I find it easier to to mark the wheel all the way around with a line.
The wheels are inserted in the table (no trucks. Clamp the wheels using the table. Not to tight, just enough to hold them firmly.
This way you can work your way down several wheels at once then finnish them individually.
As there is no precise measuring built in with this system, it's important to mark 'em first.
I used to have all my wheels done at the plastics shop for a couple of buck a wheel but last year when I inquired it was $5 per. Ouch.
It cost me $3 for 2 sheets for my sander heavier and light gauge as Eric mentioned. I can't remember how many I did but probably the equivalent of 7 sets.
Wear a mask and some goggles in a well ventilated area. OUTDOORS
_________________
Many Happy Pumps!
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Claude Regnier on 2003-05-16 14:22 ]</font>
The wheels are inserted in the table (no trucks. Clamp the wheels using the table. Not to tight, just enough to hold them firmly.
This way you can work your way down several wheels at once then finnish them individually.
As there is no precise measuring built in with this system, it's important to mark 'em first.
I used to have all my wheels done at the plastics shop for a couple of buck a wheel but last year when I inquired it was $5 per. Ouch.
It cost me $3 for 2 sheets for my sander heavier and light gauge as Eric mentioned. I can't remember how many I did but probably the equivalent of 7 sets.
Wear a mask and some goggles in a well ventilated area. OUTDOORS
_________________
Many Happy Pumps!
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Claude Regnier on 2003-05-16 14:22 ]</font>