Indy101 - Indy109

Carsten Pingel · Post by **Carsten Pingel** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:57 pm

Is there a difference between the Indy 101 and the Indy 109 ?
The Independent Homepage only shows the 109 available !
But if you look at the homepage of longskate.com you can buy 101 !
Are 101 older ones and 109 is just the new name ?
Whats the secret ?

Nick Krest · Post by **Nick Krest** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:53 am

New name.

Same hanger.

New stupid baseplate (Nü-Skül drilling only, too-short proprietary kingpin).

A waste of time, IMHO.

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:55 pm

I've found that the new stage 9 baseplates are a little more accurate then some of the older versions which were often wildly off. The rest of the stage 9 truck is also slightly improved in terms of casting quality over the older versions. The big problem is, as Nick noted, that the kingpin is not easily replaced. It's got a knurled head and sits in a hole that's too wide to lock in a hex head replacement bolt. I've ended up using JB weld to hold in the standard 2 1/4" grade 8 replacement. Other than that, it's a great truck, as always.

Glenn S · Post by **Glenn S** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 7:06 pm

The 101(or 109) is one of my favorite front trucks. There is something about it that just feels better than the RTX up front to me.

Rick Stanziale · Post by **Rick Stanziale** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 7:29 pm

I agree with Glenn, the Indy 101/9 just feels better as a front truck than the RTX. I've got two that have spent time at the Monkey Wrench Machine Works spa for skateboard trucks, one cut down to 88mm, both now sporting 8mm axles. Been stockpiling more to send GX before slolam season gets under way again. I've even started using the straight 8mm axle as a back truck (steeply wedged) instead of an offset. Perhaps they have slightly less traction than an offset, but that is offset (pun intended) by my increased confidence (i.e., don't have to worry about an offset arm snapping off during a race).

YMMV,
66

Glenn S · Post by **Glenn S** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 7:41 pm

Rick,
I've never tried a cut down 101. What is your feeling on your cut down Indy 101 hanger? How does it ride?

Chris Favero · Post by **Chris Favero** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 4:38 am

6,i agree with you.we(sidlo,cnova and i)mostly freeride around the city with a doubli indy strt axel set up.feels juicier.i raced trade street last year with stock indys,almost raced pump station with them too.great trucks.cf

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 5:05 pm

I love the cut down Indys. I have 88's from Chicken and 75's that I made. All have 8mm axles. Love em. Nothing feels better for tight. I still like midtracks better for GS.

Vincent Berruchon · Post by **Vincent Berruchon** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 7:07 pm

Rick Stanziale wrote:... I've got two that have spent time at the Monkey Wrench Machine Works spa for skateboard trucks, one cut down to 88mm, both now sporting 8mm axles. Been stockpiling more to send GX before slolam season gets under way again. I've even started using the straight 8mm axle as a back truck (steeply wedged) instead of an offset. Perhaps they have slightly less traction than an offset, but that is offset (pun intended) by my increased confidence (i.e., don't have to worry about an offset arm snapping off during a race).
YMMV,
66

When you talk about "straight 8mm axle"
You mean that you change the axle of an original production trucks, remplacing it by a good precision axle.
Is it hard to do?
Are original axle so bad (the one of the truck I've buy last WE is rusted)?

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 9:39 pm

Vinz -

Changing out an axle is easy. Get a steel plate with a 9mm hole. Determine which side of the axle has the knurling. Place that side of the axle in the hole. Hold the axle square to the plate. Hit the other side of the axle into the hanger with a 3-lb. hammer. It will pop right out. Carefully bore the hanger hole to 8mm. Put retaining compound on your new 8mm axle and press it back into the hanger. Drill a hole for a set-screw if you want (I usually don't). Done! The new axles have three advantages: 1) They are straight, 2) They are probably made out of much better steel than the original axles, 3) the bearings fit tighter so there is less play. All of the above adds up to increased traction and turning accuracy. Another thing you can do is put in an axle that is extra-long, allowing you to change truck width as necessary using spacers.

SC

Christopher Bara · Post by **Christopher Bara** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:36 pm

Hey Steve, that's allot to ask for most folks!........Check out www.Asphaltplayground.com for 8mm trackers and www.pocketpistolskates.com for 8mm Indy's. They're not too much more than stock trucks. The straight axles are far more important than the difference you get with the 8mm (what is it 0.04mm's different than 5/16's?). but it comes as a package deal. The advantage of going thru www.monkeywrenchmachineworks.com as 66 states is that you get well faced hangers (90 degrees), and seats cut into the hanger and locknut so you would no longer need speedrings.....and he does a nice mediablast job on it to give it a brushed look...it's a nice touch

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 11:25 pm

Yeh, no doubt the axle upgrades from PPS, AP & MMW are cleaner and more perfect than mine. I just like to mess around with stuff. I use a file and machinist's square to square up the hanger face/ bearing seat. That raised bearing seat on the AP & MMW trucks is nice though...

It's really not that much work. Just DIY tinkering fun. I've tweaked every truck I've owned in one way or another.

Christopher Bara · Post by **Christopher Bara** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 11:28 pm

I wish i had a good enough touch to do it...it'd be good mental therapy....unfortunately, when i get my hands on a project like that, "Tool Time" comes to mind....

Vincent Berruchon · Post by **Vincent Berruchon** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 12:58 am

Christopher and Steve: thank you for your replies

I don't think I'll try by myself but perhaps some friends will - if we manage to get good axles.

I was in a french downhill contests last week end and I've noticed the real domination of trucks with straight axles (Magun and Randal Comp against Randall II 's approximative axles)

I'll think about that for slalom now!

Carsten, to get back to the original subject, I've found Indy 101 with double drilling baseplate two weeks ago (in a shop that probably order them by error.. because they even don't know what is slalom)! I guess it was an old stock...

Carsten Pingel · Post by **Carsten Pingel** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 8:45 am

Vinc,
get them ! The new 101 Baseplates have only new school drilling !! So for most of the Slaolom decks you need to drill additional holes !

(

Ricky Byrd · Post by **Ricky Byrd** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:32 pm

Don't drill new holes in your deck. Bolt the new base plate to an old plate with old school drilling and use it as a guide to drill new holes in the new plate.

Carsten Pingel · Post by **Carsten Pingel** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 3:28 pm

Thats what I meant !

Shane McFarland · Post by **Shane McFarland** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 5:34 am

how are the indy 101s for a back truck?
also what should it be dewedge at?
is there a rule of thumb,like the same as the front,or half of front,or when it works for you?
thanks.
Shane.

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 6:08 am

Khiro has a really cool looking wedge kit out that would allow you to easily try a lot of different wedge options out until you found the front and back angles that work best for you. Most folks run their back Indy offsets dewedged 7 to 11 degrees, depending on the board and front truck wedging. A bit more wedge for tight than G usually. Then again, some top guys run their backs flat. Gotta find your own preference.

Eric Brammer · Post by **Eric Brammer** » Sun Apr 24, 2005 12:24 am

Not the best choice, but do-able once some of the steering quickness is dealt with. Indy's are twichy off of center, and can make for a 'nervous' feeling tailend. Using a steeper wedge, fat-end-towards-the-tail will undoubtably help. No less than 8*, maybe more like 12*. Khiro's new wedge kit would be a good place to start on that. Just how quick you want that rearend, um, you'll have to do some wedge/bushing tweaking to get it figured.
Also consider using a Stimulator or Radikal bushing back there, but not too stiff (unless you're over 200 lbs.) to help stabilize the truck.With a Stim, there's no need for a lower washer (thanks,Duane!), and that may work with a blue or green Radikal bushing. However, look at the kingpin length, as the new Indy's have shorter kingpins, making it hard to put in bigger, taller bushings.

Adam Daniels · Post by **Adam Daniels** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 3:09 pm

how have people felt about the indy as a front truck? i have recently purchased one and it should be here in a week or two. any idea on ideal wedging to use it as a front for ts?

thanks

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 9:15 pm

I think Indy is a really good stock front truck, good for all disciplines. I've wedged them with good success in front between 14 and 20 degrees. I have a couple of loaner boards with Indys on the front, wedged 18 degrees, using trimmed Stimulator/Radikal/Chaputhane bushings. Everybody loves them. I have another Indy 101, narrowed to 75mm, with 8mm axle & steel ball pivot in a bearing brass cup, that I'll be putting on a Roe S-camber for an ultra tight deluxe setup. Nothing feels better than Indy. To me, that is. Not everybody loves them so much, but who cares what other people think?

Paul Fletcher · Post by **Paul Fletcher** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 1:53 am

Im new to slalom and am just setting up my 1st rig Its a homemade deck cutdown from an old longboard i had.
I have Indy 109 and Zigzag 80a & 83a wheels. I weigh 90kg and was wondering which Khiro bushing to run for my weight?
Im also wonderin about the Khiro wedge rails and how the go compared to a complete wedge riser?

Any advice will be appreciated

Steve Collins · Post by **Steve Collins** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:52 am

Start with Khiro white in front, red in back. If you want to dampen the front, mix whites and blues. If you need a stiffer back, go to yellow.

The rail wedges are better than normal wedges for two big reasons:
-Variety of angles: Normal wedges are only 5 & 9 degrees. Khiros can do any angle.
-Stiffness: Soft wedges add slop. Khiros are hard and precise.

Nice choice of wheels and trucks by the way. What wheelbase are you planning on running at first?

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Indy101 - Indy109

Indy101 - Indy109

same/slightly better thing, minor new difficulty

iNdYs

replacing axles

angles schmangles

Indy as a rear..