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Where's the shields?

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:40 pm
by Jack Quarantillo
Look at this pic (from ABEC11's site):

Image

I've got 4 or 5 different sets of Biltins, some were "plain wrap", some actually had "retail" labeling on the tube. Some are ABEC5, some are 7 (and I do not begin to think that I could actually tell the difference if there was one, cuz I'm not that consistent.)

Anyhow, look closely at that pic, and there's shields on BOTH sides of the bearing, all of mine are only shielded on the outside.

What's your experience? Anyone have any with both shields?

Q

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 9:32 pm
by W. Kilner
The final version came w/o inner shields and with the crowns facing the other way to allow easy access for cleaning and lubing.

Must be prototypes in that picture.

shields?

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:28 pm
by Martin Siegrist
who needs shields?

Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:20 am
by Vlad Popov
After the shields are damaged/gone nothing esle fits. It takes one damaged shield to loose 2 bearings. A seal version would be nice.

specially lubricated receptacle end

Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 2:22 am
by Steve Collins
About a month ago I asked Chris & Brent about the missing shield. Their answer was that a shield isn't needed on the inside of the bearing, where it is protected inside the wheel. Unlike a normal bearing, a Biltin always has the same side in and thus needs no shield there.

Biltin shields

Posted: Fri May 07, 2004 1:47 pm
by Barry Gourley
Yeah whats up with no iner shields??


Vlad said----After the shields are damaged/gone nothing else fits. It takes one damaged shield to loose 2 bearings. A seal version would be nice.

Is it possible to buy extra shields???

Shields

Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 4:56 pm
by Simon [last name]
Ok, no Shields are better to clean, thats correct.
But it isnt the only reason men build Bearings without Shields.

No Shields = More Speed

Reason is, that without Bearings, there is less friction.
And there is another reason: The air circulation In the bearing can get out.

Best would be Bearings with NO Shields, the Problem then is, that Dirt gets in the bearing very quick and will destroy the Bearing.

Most of the highspeed bearings are one side shielded.
The other Shield is normally removeable.
Most good bearings have removeable shields (also full shielded bearings),
That you can wash them out.

PS: To make your Bearings faster, DON'T USE GREACE, Take some Teflon Oil. Consistenz of Oil is thinner = Faster.

Hope i could help you.
If anyone of you Tested the V-Shockers or Super 6 Trucks please reply on Topic in "Trucks".

Greetz
Simon

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:20 pm
by Vlad Popov
Turner bearing shields fit.

Re: Shields

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:08 pm
by Martin Siegrist
Simon [last name] wrote:Reason is, that without Bearings, there is less friction.Simon
that's cool!

Let's use wheels without bearings!

Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 11:04 pm
by Vlad Popov
I've been using nothing but two pairs of these bearings for over a year now. They fit many different shields and seals from other brands and are extremely easy to clean. Long-term test results are stunning; the bearings run like new.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:55 pm
by Erik Basil
Several of us have been building our own hybrid ceramic Biltins, using ceramic balls out of the cheapest bearing sets we can score on eBay or balls out of the expensive "Rockin Ron's" ceramic bearings. They seem to work great, giving the high speed performance of a bearing that only needs the lightest of oils to the stability of the inner race/spacer interface feel of the bearings.

It's a great project if you've got an hour and the inclination. Check it out.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:19 pm
by Jack Quarantillo
Very interesting...

Cool idea.

Wonder what Ron or Chris would have to say about that? (not that there's anything wrong with what you're doing unless you start marketing them.)

Biltin Rockets actually has a nice ring to it.

Q

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:05 pm
by Justin Pannulla
That is a very cool idea Erik, now if only i could afford ceramics!

By the way, i love your signature!

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 7:02 pm
by Erik Basil
Thanks, Justin!

Jack, in response to your one query, I actually know:

--Ron has made rumblings on Concrete Disciples that he's looking into the Biltins idea.

--Chris has repo'd a set of the ceramic Biltins I made, using what I call "KMart Ceramic" balls. He has reserved comment until he rides them more.

Mile High Mark, of the eponymous online skate shop, is one that took the time and investment to use the Rockin' Ron bearings as donors to a set of Biltins. He sold them to a dude that posts on Silverfish and Ncdsa and who reports they're working great in a pumping board he's built up. Those had to go for $100, just had to.

My method is much cheaper than Mark's, and I got the idea from Hugh Regalado. I took Biltin 3's apart, and also took apart a set of hybrid ceramics I got off eBay for $10 (marketed as "Warp" ceramics in some shops) to get the ball bearings. The total cost on my set is less than $30, plus the time. In terms of time, for the first set I did it took about 45 minutes for the first 7 bearings, and about 45 minutes for the 8th bearing-- I must have been running low on caffeine or something but just kept dropping balls all over the place. Work over a cloth towel, trust me!

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:53 pm
by Jack Quarantillo
Again, now even more interesting...

I saw Ron post on Skull & Bones at least a year ago about possibly making either a DH or Slalom specific bearing (a la Biltin), but I'm guessing he's either too busy, or not that interested. I also read about some tests where Biltins were below the ABEC spec stamped on the shields. (I cannot confirm the validity of these tests.)

I use both Ron's (rocket steel) and Biltins. I love the simplicity and sturdiness of the Biltin, and Ron really seems to know his bearings, and has all the bowlriders using his stuff. I think that a fusion of the two would be bearing bliss for me.

Q

9 ball Revolver bearings

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:04 pm
by Greg Pinch
Hey have a look at Revolver bearings out of Canada. Jack Smith is selling them out of the states.
They have a 9 ball bearing set-up that is similar to Builtins.

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 8:05 pm
by Erik Basil
Greg, the "Revolvers" look just the same as "SiNSystems" bearings to me. They appear to have the same 10mm inner bore, and to use the same aluminum top-hat/spacer combo to fit onto near-8mm axles.

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 8:49 pm
by Justin Pannulla
My method is much cheaper than Mark's, and I got the idea from Hugh Regalado. I took Biltin 3's apart, and also took apart a set of hybrid ceramics I got off eBay for $10 (marketed as "Warp" ceramics in some shops) to get the ball bearings. The total cost on my set is less than $30, plus the time. In terms of time, for the first set I did it took about 45 minutes for the first 7 bearings, and about 45 minutes for the 8th bearing-- I must have been running low on caffeine or something but just kept dropping balls all over the place. Work over a cloth towel, trust me!
Hmmm, i think its time for a little experiment.

Vlad's bearings

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:16 am
by Bradley Elfman
Vlad Popov wrote:I've been using nothing but two pairs of these bearings for over a year now. They fit many different shields and seals from other brands and are extremely easy to clean. Long-term test results are stunning; the bearings run like new.
Vlad, I didn't quite follow the thread. What bearings are you referring to in your note above? What do you clean them with?

Ceramic biltins.

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 7:12 pm
by Jamie Merrifield
I also built up a set of ceramic Biltins. I ripped the balls out of a bearing that I didn't like the seal on, and stuffed them into an abec 5 biltin. They have stood up to everything I've thrown at them.

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:44 pm
by Erik Basil
Jamie, do you lube your ceramics, and with what?

Lube job!

Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 7:43 am
by Jamie Merrifield
I accidentially hit new post instead of reply! Sorry about that!