Rayne Libido Love?

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Peter Croce
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:36 am
Location: Motown, MI
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Rayne Libido Love?

Post by Peter Croce » Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:53 am

My first slalom board was a Rayne Libido. I still have it, setup with Tracker 106 RTS/X and Orangatang 83A 4Presidents for now. I always ran it on the smallest wheelbase for TS-HS but now I have it moved out to a 21" wheelbase. It's very comfortable for HS-GS, but not very comfortable on the smaller wheelbase.

I have a couple questions though. How much do I need to dewedge to flat? And how much should I dewedge from there? My slalom buddy told me it needs to be dewedged more but it's already 15º dewedged. And how much should the front be wedged? Thanks y'all.

Here she is. Such a fun ride.

Image

Eric Brammer
Posts: 324
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 4:48 am

Rayne Libido

Post by Eric Brammer » Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:54 am

Peter, you want to use between 5* and 15* of positive wedge up front with a Tracker Rtx truck. The big issues on that truck are the stickiness of the pivot (which slows steering input) cup (use spray silicone), and the axles being just under 8mm (slight loss of traction there). Consider spacing it a bit wider to better match the deck's width.

At the rear, look to get the Rts set so that the kingpin is nearly perpendicular to the deck. This may not be the optimum for your style, but it's a good starting point. Also look into a pair of softer wheels for rear traction (81A Hotspots, or 80A Zigs) if you feel you're sliding out. Go softer if you're on rougher tar.

How much 'de-wedging' that will take is variable, as kicktails are different on many boards, and then truck positioning can alter that too. Try not to mount a rear truck along the curvature between the flat of the deck and the kick. IF you do, use a softer wedge next to the deck, then a stiff flat, then whatever wedge[s] needed to get your steering angle settled. Khiro's wedge-kit of many different angled wedges is indispensable in 'tweaking' the right angles, but their other wedges and flat blocks are good to have on hand.

Be ready to buy extra mounting hardware, too. It often bends, and you'll want to have bolts of a whole bunch of lengths (1-1/2" to 2-1/2", every 1/4" or 1/2" inbetween) for dialing in set-ups. I've found that Metric 5mm bolts can be stronger (grade 8.8!), but are hard to get stateside. U.S. #10-24 tpi tends to bend more, and chew through decks, due to the aggresive thread pitch (which makes the bolt thinner,btw), so U.S. #10-32 tpi bolts in grade 5 are the ones to look for in mounting your trucks. Indutrial supply companies like McMaster-Carr may have what you need.

Bushings are really the next 'tweak' in your set-up. Once you've got the steering 'tuned' where it points where you expect it to go, think about getting a few bushings that're in the 'range' of +6 to -4 A-Shore durometer points of what you're kinda comfy on already. With the front, get a few tall conicals,too. With the rear, consider a few 'fatties' to use in the baseplate of the rear truck for better pumping.

I know, lots of 'little' bits here, but the good news is that it dosen't cost a whole lot ($60 will build you a nice 'tuner' kit of wedges,bolts,and bushings), and you'll be ready for most any hill.
"Surfin' these Old Hills since back in The Day"

Peter Croce
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:36 am
Location: Motown, MI
Contact:

Post by Peter Croce » Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:17 pm

I just dewedged my rear to basically 1º (7º+15º wedge with a 1/8" pad on bottom) and WOW this is insane! I can put so much power into the back and it's not going anywhere. Thanks for the advice.

EDIT: Why can't I have an avatar?!?!

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